Rediscovering Xinjiang: a cultural journey on the ancient Silk Road

As Malayalis who have spent over a decade in China, my wife and I recently undertook a journey that felt like a rediscovery of history, culture, and unexpected kinship - deep in the heart of Xinjiang, a province far west in China. The National Day holiday in early October is when millions of people travel across the country. For us, it was the perfect moment to explore this part of China, and it surprised us and felt strangely familiar at the same time. Our adventure begins with a 6-hour, 45-minute flight from Shanghai to Kashgar - longer than flying from Kochi to Dubai! It reiterates to us the immense scale of China. Stepping into Kashgar is like walking into a living fairytale. This ancient Silk Road hub pulses with energy. The Old City’s labyrinthine alleys are filled with the aroma of naan bread and lamb kebabs, the sound of enchanting traditional Uyghur music, and the sight of Uyghur families dancing with a joy that is infectious. The warmth and kindness of the Uyghur people are immediately apparent, with shopkeepers offering cheerful smiles and helpful directions. Food stalls in the alleys of Kashgar. | Photo Credit: Suresh Varma Shared cultural ties We discover a beautiful bridge to home in the most unexpected way: the enduring love for Indian cinema. Children run up to us, gleefully humming the music of ‘Aankhen Khuli’ ( Mohabbatein , 2000) - their words a mix of Hindi and their own tongue, but with perfect melody. We cheerfully field questions about Shah Rukh Khan. In that moment, thousands of miles from home, we feel a familiar connection. This warmth extends beyond the marketplace. A minor logistical note for future foreign travellers: while using a self-driven car, we find that fuel stations require a Chinese ID card. But this potential inconvenience becomes a testament to the local character. On multiple occasions, eager and helpful residents step forward to swipe their own IDs for us, allowing us to then buy the fuel. It is a simple act of kindness that we will not forget. A special permit allows for a breathtaking four-hour drive along the Karakoram Highway to the stunning Karakul Lake. Nestled at 3,500 meters in the Pamir range, the lake’s turquoise waters reflect the majestic, glacier-crowned peak of Muztagh Ata, the “Father of Ice Mountains”. Standing there, with the borders of six nations nearby, is a humbling experience, highlighting Xinjiang’s unique position at a crossroads of continents. The Karakul Lake with Muztagh Ata in the background. | Photo Credit: Suresh Varma One interesting moment for us is to discover that the Chinese name of Kashgar is Kashi, bearing a resemblance to Kashi (present-day Varanasi), one of India’s ancient holy cities. This shared nomenclature, linking two great centres of civilisation and faith, feels like a silent nod to the deep, historical bonds our cultures have shared for millennia. This connection feels even more personal when we are warmly greeted not as “Yin’du” (the Chinese word for Indian) but...

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